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Headging nd Pruning
Lawn Treatments

Lawn Treatments

  • Early Spring Application: This application includes pre-emergent control for many grassy weeds including the annoying weed crabgrass. This application is done prior to crabgrass germination and creates a barrier in the turf prohibiting this eye soar from entering your turf. The pre-emergent weed control is blended with a premium dry granular fertilizer allowing for maximum feed.

  • Spring Application: Blanket selective herbicide application over the entire lawn to provide broadleaf weed control for hundreds of annoying weeds. If present, dandelions and other broadleaf weeds will wilt and die shortly after treatment.

  • Early Summer Application: Consists of a premium dry granular fertilizer with slow release nitrogen to provide steady food for your lawn. Broadleaf weed control is applied as necessary to take care of any remaining broadleaf weeds that may have emerged in the lawn.

  • Late Summer Application: Here again we apply more slow release nitrogen for maximum feed. If broadleaf weeds are present, the will be sprayed dead as needed.

  • Fall Application: This application is probably the most beneficial for your lawn. While your lawn is preparing for winter by storing food and nutrients in its root system, it is important to feed it what it wants. This promotes the health of the grass plants and ensures they will be ready to green up early next spring.

  • Insect and Disease Control: If an insect or disease becomes present in your lawn, we will notify you of the problem and rectify it. While lawns in the Frederick area are susceptible to certain insects and diseases, they are usually only treated on an as needed basis. White Grubs are the most common problem encountered in lawns in our area and can easily be treated with an insecticide. Two good indicators that you have a grub problem are the presence of moles looking for food (they cause small bumps in long lines through the grass) and Japanese and May/June Beetle damage to tree and shrub leaves in summer and early fall (they are the adult form of grubs and like to eat foliage close to home).

  • Core Aeration: Lawn Aeration softens hard soil by allowing water to penetrate into them rather than just run off of the surface. As your roots grow deeper, you won't need to water as often. This can save you money on watering your lawn. It also allows your lawn to stay greener in the summer and winter. Clay soil expands when the weather gets warm (or cold) causing the soil to become compacted. Lawn aeration is the process of using a lawn aerator to aerate your lawn. Aerating makes holes in your lawn that allow it to absorb more water, stimulate deeper root growth and reduce soil compaction. A lawn aerator also allows air and nutrients direct access to the root system. By removing cores from your lawn, it gives your soil room for expansion; this reduces stress on the roots and gives you a nice looking lawn throughout the year.

  • Dethatching: Thatch is a naturally occurring layer of interconnected dead and living stems, leaves, moss, grass clippings, roots and debris found between growing grass and the soil under it. A normal amount of thatch improves turf resiliency when faced with heavy use, drought or high heat because it will hold in extra moisture and shield the soil from the sun. But if it gets thicker than an inch, it impedes the ability of water, fertilizer, air and other nutrients to get to the roots. If thatch dries out, it will decrease the drought resistance of the grass, and if it stays wet, fungi and disease may grow there, which will be hard on grass already declining because of poor access to water and nutrients. A thick layer of thatch makes the lawn more susceptible to pests, unfavorable weather and weeds while also decreasing the effectiveness of regular care and maintenance. Using a dethatching rake will eliminate these conditions and improve the overall health and appearance of your lawn.